Question	Answer
	Do you know anything about window inserts (www.windowinserts.com) for windows in old houses? We are thinking about purchasing them, but want to be sure they will be cost effective for summer and winter.	In theory, window inserts are a valid option for reducing air infiltration, providing an air space for insulation and helping to control outside noise. With an older home that has leaky windows, keeping them intact is a must and this is an affordable solution. Another product that we have recommended and used in the New Orleans area is Magnetite windows. They use the same principle except use magnets to attach themselves to the window frame. They can be seen at www.magnetitewindows.com. Both of these windows solutions should be cost effective for the amount you will have invested.
	Does Cleco offer rebates / incentives for installing solar water heaters and/or timers for commercial / residential electric water heaters?	Cleco does not offer any rebates or incentives for installing solar water heaters or other solar equipment at this time. The state and federal governments have aggressive tax credit plans to benefit consumers who install renewable or energy efficient upgrades in their homes. For solar water heaters the state offers a 50% tax credit on systems installed up to $25,000 of the total cost with a maximum credit of $12,500. The federal government also offers a 30% tax credit on the cost of the system installed with no maximum limit to total cost. For more information on federal and state incentives go to: www.dsireusa.org
	Does Cleco offer Smart Meters for residential customers?	While Cleco is not currently offering smart meters, we are testing the technology and its potential benefits for customers in a small pilot that began last year. We are working in conjunction with the Louisiana Public Service Commission to review the results of the ongoing pilot and its success in offering customers more flexibility in their electric service. We believe that smart metering offers a great deal of potential to help Cleco become even more efficient and allow customers to better control their energy costs.
	Does closing bedroom doors that are being cooled increase energy usage? The thermostat is in the hallway, and we shut doors at night when sleeping.	In the Gulf South it is very important to control both moisture and temperature within our home. We normally accomplish this task by running our air conditioner. When vents within unused rooms or doors to those areas are closed, it reduces the air conditioner's ability to address both the moisture and temperature. It negatively affects the overall performance of the air conditioner. Closed vents increase air pressure in AC ducts and cause the blower motor on your AC to work harder to get the same amount of air though less ducts. This causes wear on your AC and usually increases operating costs and decreases comfort. All of the air supplied by the air conditioner must have a clear, unrestricted path back to the return air filter.
	I am seeing some promotions of energy management devices that reportedly connect to the neutral bus of a power panel and reduce energy use and consumption resulting in savings on your monthly electric bill. Have you guys looked at any of these devices?	The device you describe sounds like a ”dream come true“ for those of us who pay electric utility bills! I'm afraid though, that you might be disappointed in the performance of these products. They claim to lower your bill by correcting the power factor (the ratio of real power flowing to the load to apparent power) on the line entering your home. Rates based upon power factors are used in the industrial/large commercial setting, where equipment can consume large amounts of electricity. Residential customers are not billed based upon a power factor, so this device correcting the power factor doesn't really help. Hypothetically, the device affects the power, but it only is effective for certain appliances (those with induction motors) and the correction is minimal. So, even if you bought into the idea that it would create savings, the payback on purchase and installation would be too long. A better investment would be to make sure you are using energy efficient appliances, that your home is well insulated and outside air infiltration is minimal.
	I have a metal building with suspended ceilings. How should I insulate the ceiling and roof area?	The most effective method of insulating a metal building is installing spray urethane foam insulation against the metal roof panels, creating a semi-conditioned unvented attic assembly. This product is an air and vapor barrier and has an excellent R value of about 7 per inch. If the roofline already has vinyl wrapped fiberglass insulation installed, then it must be completely removed before the spray foam is installed. If this option is not viable, put a minimum of 10" of roll insulation on top of the suspended ceiling in an effort to create an air-tight ceiling assembly. It is very important that the air barrier is in full contact with the ceiling insulation, especially if the HVAC duct work is located above the ceiling.
	I have been told by some energy contractors that I could save on energy if I used spray on foam insulation between all the rafters and house overhang. They also said I should close in all vents in the attic. I cannot see the point of sealing all vents in the attic. Is this a proper way to provide additional insulation in the attic?	Yes, the term for the method you’re describing is an unventilated attic. This method is a growing trend for very energy efficient homes. Your home becomes like a giant ice chest, including the attic space. Your AC unit in the attic, as well as the ducts, are in a semi-air-conditioned space so they work better and are stressed less. Your attic will be 10 degrees different from downstairs at all times. The foam is sprayed under the roof deck between the rafters and down the walls to the ground. No other insulation is allowed or required and no ventilation is used. A fresh air duct is piped to the outside overhang on your house to bring in fresh air to the AC plenum where it is cooled, dehumidified and cleaned before it blows in your living space. The air you now breathe is probably a higher quality than outside. A vented attic just brings hot, humid air into your home structure. This method never lets this type of air inside. Also, your attic floor is free of insulation so you can floor it and keep it clean. The foam is a solid material so there will be less dust from cellulose or fiberglass- type insulation that will eventually drift through your ceiling down to your furniture where you have to dust. This method is usually for new construction, not remodels, unless you want to remove all your vents and old existing insulation first.
	I have purchased the so-called energy efficient light bulbs at an inflated price and I am having to replace these burned bulbs as often as the old standards. What could be the problem? Others using these particular bulbs are claiming they never have to replace them.	Compact fluorescent lamps normally fail for a few different reasons. Most CFLs are not designed to operate with dimmer switches. If you have dimmer switches, then purchase CFLs that specify they can be used with this type of switch. CFLs are also intended to be installed in fixtures that remain on for an extended period of time. When they are turned off and then back on numerous times within a short period of time their useful life is greatly reduced. Finally, the cause of shortened lamp life may be directly related to the amount of heat within the fixture. If hot attic air is allowed to enter the fixture from the ceiling, then, in all likelihood this heat is too intense and is shortening the life of the lamp.
	I purchased a home in 2005. Unfortunately, it has aluminum siding in the area outside the living area, which includes 2 bathroom lockers. In the winter I could hang meat, it gets so cold. I notice when sitting on my patio that the TV sounds as though it was right by me. I really would like to correct this situation.	Your bathroom closets may be cold in the winter for several reasons. The first suggestion is to check the exterior walls to confirm that they have insulation and that the bottom plate of those walls are air sealed with caulk between the concrete slab and the wall framing. Secondly, inspect the ceiling insulation above these rooms. The recommended minimum thickness of ceiling insulation is 10". Finally, you may want to consider leaving the closet doors open slightly during the cold nights to allow the heat being supplied to the bathroom to heat the closet areas, as well.
	I’m having the attic rafters sprayed with 5 to 6 inches of open cell foam. The representative told my husband they will spray over the vent ridge at the top roofline (where the roof peaks), closing it off. Is this the correct thing to do? People are telling us not to because the attic needs to breathe.	The simple answer is yes, when open cell foam insulation is installed on the underside of the roof decking, then all venting both at the ridge as well as the soffit or eave must be completely closed off. The attic space will become semi-conditioned space and outside venting is completely eliminated. Outside moisture and a lot of the radiant heat from the sun will not enter the attic, so traditional attic ventilation is not needed nor allowed with unvented attics. However the complete answer is not that simple, there are a few very important items that must be addressed in order to achieve better performance and energy efficiency. Please review this list with the insulator before he starts the project: 1) The existing ceiling insulation must be removed in order to control the temperature and relative humidity in the newly created semi-conditioned space. 2) If you have a gas water heater or gas furnace located in the attic, then combustion air must be provided. 3) If you have any gas appliances in your home, install a carbon monoxide sensor/detector. 4) The foam insulation must also cover the rafters and all roof framing, not just in between the rafters. 5) If you have any vertical attic walls that are being sprayed with foam insulation, then an approved ignition barrier must be installed on that area. 6) Ducting for the heater vent lights must exit the attic area into either the soffit or roof line. 7) Confirm that the existing heating and cooling equipment for your home will not be oversized due to the proposed improvements to the attic. Another good quality control feature would be to ask the insulator to prove that the attic is truly air tight by using a blower door and infrared camera.
	Is there a standard temperature differential between the upper and lower thermostat?	I presume that you are asking about the standard temperature differential between the upper and lower thermostat band settings. Most manufacturers have this pre-set at 4 degrees. However, with most newer digital thermostats this can be adjusted to anything you want.
	On what temperature should I leave my air conditioning when I’m not home? I am gone by 6:30 a.m. and return at about 5:30 p.m. I live in a manufactured mobile home with a metal roof. I have been leaving it set at 79-80 degrees.	You’re smart to consider temperature settings when you’re away from home. Research indicates that you can save from two to three percent for every degree on utility bills. The opportunity to save exists, but you have to be careful not to get too greedy or you’ll end up losing money! What should the setting be? Decide what is a comfortable setting for you when you’re at home and then add no more than 4 degrees to the setting when you’re away. If for example, you’re comfortable with your air conditioner thermostat set on 78 degrees, you should probably go no higher than 82 degrees when you’re gone, which is the highest we would recommend in any situation. When you get home after 5:30 p.m. and drop the thermostat, your air conditioner will have to work hard to get the home to your desired temperature. Overcoming a difference of more than 4 degrees forces your system to work so hard that it actually offsets any savings you might have enjoyed. For maximum comfort and efficiency, we recommend a programmable thermostat. You can set it to raise or lower the temperature automatically, depending upon the time of day and day of the week. This way, you could set your thermostat to begin lowering the temperature before you get home so that it is comfortable when you arrive.
	Will one or two solar-powered attic fans help reduce the heat in my attic? I have more than stand-up room in the attic. My electric hot water heater has a blanket, which I installed. Can solar power heat a water heater's water? I really would like to do anything I can to reduce the energy bill.	The first step to providing a really good ventilated attic is an air-tight ceiling. That means all of the holes in the ceiling sheetrock and wall framing must be completely air sealed and then insulation placed on top. This includes every recessed can light, smoke detector, ceiling lights & fans, speakers, and the pull-down attic stairs. Every penetration must be addressed with either caulk or foam in the can. The second step is to provide adequate fresh outdoor air to enter into the attic area via the soffit or eave vents. The more air space for the outdoor air to enter the attic, the better. Once these steps are completed, then the hot air that leaves the attic should occur near the ridge via a wind turbine, also known as a whirly bird, ridge vent or power ventilator. Many studies have shown that power ventilators are ineffective in properly removing attic heat without negatively affecting the living space below. In addition, usually the motors for the attic ventilators only last for a few years and become a maintenance issue. My suggestion is to complete the recommended items stated above and install either a long ridge vent or wind turbines near the ridge of the roof assembly. There are a lot of good Web sites available to determine the proper amount of attic ventilation. Search the Web with key words like attic ventilation or ridge vent calculators. In the Gulf South we are blessed with lots of sun, so yes, solar water heaters are an excellent option when considering reducing the cost of domestic water heating. Solar water heaters will provide 70 - 75% of a typical home’s hot water needs. An additional source of water heating is necessary to address the remaining usage.